Attachment for sewing machines



July 7, 1936. A. SOLTAN ATTACHMENT FOR 'SEWING MACHINES Filed March 6, 1935 IIIIlI/ll IN VENTOR ALEXA NDER 501.734.

Wang A TTORN EYS.

Patented July 7, 1936 r UNHTED STATES PATENT OFFICE ATTACHIWENT FOR SEWING MACHINES Alexander Soltan, Elmhurst, N. Y, assignor to Novelty Slipper 00., Inc, New York, N. Y., a. corporation of New York Application March 6, 1935, Serial No. 9,542 12 Claims. (Cl. 112 -34) My invention relates to sewing machines, and imparting a desired finish to the-sole during the more particularly to attachments for use upon a finishing operation. Furthermore, the cuts in chain stitch sewing machine to be used in the the welt, to permit the turning of the edge of the assembling of turned shoes. sole and the welt, interfered with proper stitch- In the production of turned shoes, a sole having ing about the toe at the sides of the fore-quarter an integral welt, formed by what is called a seam of the sole. During the stitching operation the channel, upon the flesh side of the sole, is formed sole and the welt were positioned between the partially or wholly about the edge of the sole, operator and the edge of the upper, making the this edge of the sole having an edge channel outaccurate fitting of the upper to the welt difiicult side of the bottom of the seam channel. The if not impossible; Furthermore, when turning 0 free edge of the welt is directed inwardly of the the upper, the edge of the upper and its lining edge of the sole. and the welt were liable to become crumpled, par- Prior to my invention, several practices were ticularly about the toe of the shoe, so as to interfollowed in attaching the upper of a shoe to the fore with the lasting of the shoe preparatory to sole. The first of these consisted in securing the the finishing operations. 15 sole, flesh side outwardly, to a last. Thereafter There has been recently developed a third the upper was lasted in relation to the sole in the method of making a turned shoe in which the usual manner. During such lasting, the upper usual integral welt sole has the edge of an upwas inside out, and after the completion of the per, while inside out, folded over the edge of the 0 lasting operation of both the sole and the upper, sole and laid upon the welt, the sole and the upthese parts were sewed together by means of an per being fed edgewise in relation to the stitchordinary Goodyear shoemaking sewing machine, ing mechanism of a sewing machine. By this the stitching being done while the parts were method, both the grain and the flesh sides of the upon the last. This practiceinvolved the lastsole are exposed to the operator and match ing of the shoe parts before stitching, the removal markings may be used upon these parts and of the shoe from the last after stitching and the brought into accurate register so as to secure turning of the upper, and the re-lasting of the the accurate fitting of the upper to the sole. shoe,'usua1ly with a slight y Oversize l t, p or Furthermore, by this method, there is no mato the finishing operations upon the shoe. terial distortion-of the edge of the sole, and after Another method consisted in turning the edge the stitching operation, the welt with the edge 30 of an ordinary integral welt sole upon itself so of the attached uppe will be brought flat Within as to cause the integral welt to be directed outthe shoe, due solely to the turning of the upper.

wardly of the sole. To permit this turning, the Consequently there is no crumpling of the welt integral welt had to have slots cut therein about or-of the edge of the upper within the shoe, and the toe and at the sides of the fore-quarter of the only lasting operation, preparatory to the 35 the sole, so that gores would be formed when finishing of the shoe, will complete the flattenturning the welt in the manner described. The ing of the welt and the edge of the upper and no sole thusturned was placed grainside down with difiiculty will be experienced during this lasting .the edge of the sole resting upon the edge of the operation. upper, and the parts sewed together with an ordi- With the above conditions inmind, I have nary'straight needle sewing machine similar to produced certainattachments which may be apthe' McKay machine. No Dre-lasting of the shoe plied to any well known type of chain stitch parts was required by this method. After the sewing machine by means of which the sole may stitching of the sole andthe upper, the upper was be accurately held edgewise in relation to the awl turned and during this turning, the edge of the and the needle of said stitching mechanism. The sole which had been turned uponitself, was restitch channel will be spread to provide space for stored to its'normal position. Thereafter the the formation of the stitch and the proper locah was lasted before-giving the shoe its final tion thereof, and the edge of the upperwill be firfisl r accurately laid across the edge of the sole upon In this'method of making a shoe,the turning the welt. V 50 f theedg'eof' the sole and returning it to its The attachment is also so formed that it will former position, were slow, troublesome operaautomatically adjust itself to the changing contions and deformedthe leather of the sole about tour of the edge of the sole and to the slight flarthe edge thereof in a'manner to weaken the sole ing of the edge of the sole by the presser foot of at'this pointtand present serious difficulties in the machine. r

spaced from said base toward theneedle and the awl, a sole guide in advance of said spreader, and a movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader; and in such other novel features of if, construction and combination of parts as are hereinafter set forth and described, and more par:

ticularly pointed out in the claims hereto ap pended.

Referring to the drawing, Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a fragmentary portionof the stitching mechanism of achain stitch sewing machine embodyingtherein the attachment of the invention; 1 1

Fig. 2 is a side View of the attachment including 25: the presser foot in its raised position;

Fig.3 is an end Viewv of the attachment as shown from the left of Fig. 2; and Fig 4 is a detail viewof the sole guide member removed from the attachment. 30,; Like numerals refer to like parts throughout the several views. a I v In the embodiment of the invention shown in the drawing, it is illustrated in connection with an old and well knowntype of sewing machine,

35-, r the stitching mechanism of which includes therein an awl lfi, .a needle mechanism ll including a needle l2, 2. rest l3 at one side of the awlandthe needle mechanism and a thread guide or looper Hi. These elements are all old and well 40 j known in sewing machines, the invention not residing in these parts of the sewing machine but inthe. combination, therewith of anattachment by which the sole of a shoe having an integral welt, is positioned with the edge thereof in a horizontal plane so as to permit a rapid, con venient and accurate assembly of the upper in relation to the sole. The rest I3 has a dovetail slot, the undercut being shown at l5,-such dovetailed slot being used in the ordinary machine to support a bracket carrying the work plate, Mounted upon said rest is a base l6 having a slide I i adapted-to dovetail with the undercut l and to be locked in position by a set screw "3.

- Projecting from the slide I! is a spreader l9 7,5 having a transversely rounded wedge 20- upon the face thereof presented towards the base 16, and a channel 2! on the other face thereof, which; channel affords clearance for. the reciprocation of the awllil and the needle I2. The top of,the co" spreader is reduced to a narrow edge in. order'to permitthespreading of the seam channel forming the integralwelt of the. sole, and to permit a limited lateral movement of. the free edge of the welt and the proper positioning of the loweredge (75 0f. the shoe upper in relation to the spread welt without possibility .of mutilation of the welt.-; 1 I

The face of thebase I6 presented toward thev spreaderis bevelled or undercut from the top. downwardly, and is spaced from the wedgeZIl 1"] sufiiciently to provide clearance for they spread welt and thej lower edge of the upper, and to properly position same in relation to each other in their overlying relation during thestitohing operation-,andthe feeding of the soleand the w' upper by the needle during such operation.

A presser foot 22 co-operates with the spreader I9 and differs from the ordinary. presser foot in the respect that one side thereof is provided with a bevel 23 so as to conform to the angle of the welt and of the edge of the upper resulting from 5 the spreading action of the wedge 2B. The opening in the presser foot is elongated and, in part, is in alinement with the channel 2i of the spreader bar. In this manner, a clear path is afforded forthe movement of both the awl and the needle mechanism between the bottom of the channel 2| and the bottom of the seam channel of the sole of the shoe, which is spaced from the bottom of the channel 2| by the sides of this channel and for movement of the needle in relation to the presser footduring the feeding of the shoeparts. Carried by the top of the base I6 is a stop plate 24' having the end toward the spreader plate roundedat 25 for the purpose of guiding the lower edge of the upper during the feeding movement of same, and of the sole. 7 V I 7 Pivotallygmounted upon the; base I6 is a sole guide 26 held upon the base by a pivotjscrew 21 having an enlarged head. Positioned between this head and the'top of the sole, guide is acom 5 pressible spring 28 permitting play of the arm; toward andfrcm; the base 136.; The screwthreaded portion'of the pivot screw has a loose fit with; the co-ope-rating screw threads in the slide 11,,

and the opening through the base 6 for said pivot screw is of greater diameter thansaid screw, 7 so as to allow a limited tilting movement of the, screw during the play, of, the guide ,arm.; .The. spring'28 has a wide base engaging the sole guide 26 to permit this tilting :movement strength to bind the screw threads of the pivot screw 21 with the co-operating screw threads in the slide 11. The sole guide may have free turrling movement upon'said pivot screw.

To prevent accidental turning movement of the sole guide 26, I provide the base It with'a'stud 29 adapted to enter a socket 3i! in the under face of the guide, this stud being of a height to nor-; mally prevent turning of the arm without re-. lieving the tension ofthe spring 28. V V

The sole guide 26,is provided I 'th an exten-, sion 3| havinga channel 32 .therethrough, the. bottom of this sole guide being on substantially the same plane as the top of the spreadenand the channel32 being of a widthcorresponding' substantially with the distance between the bot-., tom of the seam channel in the sole and the edge of the-sole. V H 7 The end of said channel-32 remote fromthe spreader I9 is rounded, as at 33, with the two- 5 7 fold gobj ect of preventing any scraping of the edge ofthe sole contacting therewith and to co -opera ate with the sole in; imparting liftin movement or, verticalplay of the sole guide ina manner m be hereinafter referred to; a i .1 .60 Projectingfrom the end of the extension 7 close to the outer side of the channel 32 is a een; 34, the face of which Dl'csentedtoward the base, 1 is rounded throughout its upperiportion sozthat the presser foot 22 may move the edge fof the sole away from;the;spreader and suitable pressure by, said foot may be developed upon the welt: and the channelled edge of the sole. This action is merely a slight flaring of the edge'of the sole which-assists the action of the spreader in widening the seam channel-j This rounded surface 35 also assists in the proper laying of theedge of'the upper over-the edge of t e sole and upon the welt by thepresser footy,

The horn is of. a en th. tofproject affiignilfi p and lacks 35 V I acrosscthe channel 2l'in the spreader and is essairy for the operator to spaced therefrom a distance approximating the of'the shoe being assembled. Since the spreader.

20 isinterposed between the integral welt and the edge of the upper, and the horn 34, no clearance need be provided for such parts in locating the horn.

The bevel or shown at 36.

The operation of' a sewing machine equipped with the herein described attachment is substantially as follows:-

In assembling a shoe, or other footwear, in which the integral welt extends about the toe undercut face of the base I 6 is between this Welt and the sole proper. The lower edge of an upper is then located in relation to the end of the welt by means of match marks upon the upper. The sole and the upper are advanced slightly to permit them to be engaged edge of the shoe and the welt.

When thus positioning the sole in the attachment, the flesh side is presented toward the 34. The edge of the upper passes over sion 3|.

When the presser foot 22 engages the edge of the upper interposed of the base l6; The ordinary elongated opening in the presser foot is inpart directly above the awl or needle channel 2| in the spreader.

With the operation of the machine, the sole and the upper are simultaneously fed in the usual manner duringthe operation of the stitch forming mechanism, and during this feeding movement, the transversely curved wedge 20 and the bevelled guide surface progressively spread the seam channel and fold the edge of the upper in the manner above described. It is merely necguide the edge of the upper,-since the spreader l9, the channelled extension; 3| and the horn 34 control the position of the .sole during the stitching operation.

While the shank portion of the sole is passing jtheextension 3|; the portion of the sole adjacent.

said edge is in the channel 32 the sole engages the bottom of said channel 32. As the shank of the shoe passes from said channel, the edge of the fore-quarter of the sole contacting with the rounded portion 33, will. raise the sole guide 26 against the tension of the spring 28, the curved surface and the movement and the edge of crowding the material of the upper or stretching it slightly so as to secure a proper register of the match markings.

If during the stitching operation, it should be necessary to interrupt t e operation of the machine and remove or restore the sole and the upper in relation to the stitching mechanism, the sole guide may be manually raised and swung t0 and needle, the set screw l8 maintaining this adjustment.

stud, making it capable of adjustment.

The stop plate 24 prevents pivotal movement of the sole guide 26 during feeding movement of the edge of the sole. The conical compression: spring 28 with the base of the spring bearing on the guide 26 is used because a wide base spring of this in securing a tilting of the sole guide 26 Without developing excessive pressure.

It is not my intention to limit the invention to the precise details of construction shown in the accompanying drawing, it being apparent that such may be varied without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Having described the invention what I claim as new and desire to have protected by Letters Patent, is:-

1. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle and an awl, said attachment embodying therein a base adapted to be mounted at one side of the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader spaced from said base toward the needle and the awl, a sole guide in advance of said spreader, and a movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader,

2. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle and an awl, said attachment embodying therein a base adapted to be mounted at one side of the stitching'mechanism, a vertically extending spreader having a wedged surfacepresented toward and spaced from said base, and a needle and awl channel upon theopposite facet thereof presented toward the needle and the awl, a sole guide in advance of said spreader, and a movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader.

3. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle and an awl,. said attachment embodying therein a base adapted to be mounted at one side of, and having a bevelled surface on the end thereof presented toward the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader having a transversely curved wedged surface presented to ward and spaced from said base, and a needle and awl channel upon the opposite face thereof presented toward the needle and the awl, a sole guide in advance of said spreader, and a movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader.

4. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle and an awl, said attachment embodying therein a base adapted to be mounted at one side of the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader spaced from said base toward the needle and the awl, a sole guide in advance of and having an extension with a downwardly:presented channel in substantial alinement with said spreader, and a movable presser foot co-ioperating with said spreader.

. 5. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle and an awl, saidattachment embodying therein a baseadapted to be mounted at one side of the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader spaced from said base toward the needle and the awl, a soleguide in advance of and having an extension with a downwardly presented channel in substantial alinement with said spreader, and a horn at the end of said extension projecting toward and in operative relation to the spreader,

and a movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader and said horn.

6. An attachment for a sewing machinehaving a needle and an awl, said attachment embodying "therein a base adapted to be mounted at one side of the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader spaced from said base toward the needle and the awl, a sole guide in advance of and having an extension with a downwardly presented chan'' 'nel in substantial alinement with said spreader,

and a horn at the end of said extension projecting toward and in operative relation to the spreader,

said horn having a curved upper edge presented toward said J spreader 'edge of the sole away from said spreader, and a to permitflaring of the movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader and said horn.

-'7. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle and an awl, said attachment embodying therein a base adapted to be mounted at one side of the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader having a wedged surfacepresented toward and spaced from said base,'anda needle and awl channel upon the opposite face thereof presented toward the needle and the awl,, a sole guide in advance of and having an extension with a downwardly presented channel in substantial alinement with said spreader, and a horn at the end of said extension projecting toward and in operative relation to the spreader, and a movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader and said horn. .a '7

8. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle and an awl, said attachmentembodying therein a base adapted to be mounted at one side of, and having a bevelled surface on the end there of presented toward the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader having a transversely curved wedged surface presented toward and spacedfrom saidbase, and a needle and awl' channel upon the opposite face thereof presented toward the needle and'the awl, a sole guide in advance of, and having an extension with a down--' wardlypresented channel in substantial aline-' ment with said spreader, and a horn at the end of said extension projecting toward and in "operative relation to the spreader, said hornhaving' a curved upper edge presented toward said spreader to permit flaring of the edge of the soleaway" from said spreader, and a movable presser foot co operating with said spreader and saidhorn;

9. An attachment for a sewing machine having".

therein a base adapted to be mounted at one side of the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader spaced from said base toward the needle and the awl, a sole guide in advance of said spreader, a pivot screw loosely mounted in said base and having a lost motion bearing with said 7 sole guide, a conicalspring engaging said pivot screw and said guide, and a movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader. 11. An attachment for a sewing machine having aneedle and an awl, said attachment embody-f ing therein a base adapted to be mounted at one; side of the stitching mechanism,a vertically extending spreader spaced from said base toward the needle and the awl, a sole guide in advance of said spreader, means whereby'said sole'guideis mounted to have vertical play and horizontal rotation upongsaid base, a spring resisting tilting movement of saidguide, astcpplate preventing rotation of said guide in one direction, a' stud upon said base, said guide having a socket there inico-operating with said 'stud, whereby it is per-" mitted to have vertical from turning in the opposite direction, and a movable presser foot co-operating with said spreader.

12. An attachment for a sewing machinehaving a needle and an awl, said attachment embody:- ing therein a base adapted to be mounted at one sideof the stitching mechanism, a vertically extending spreader spaced from saidbase toward play, but is prevented edge presented toward said spreader to permit flaring of the edge of the sole away from said spreader, and a movable presser foot having a bevelled surface thereon presented toward said horn co-operating with said spreader and said horn.

ALEXANDER SOLTAN. 

